My
friend Bryan proposes that everything we do can be put into one of three
categories. A Bryan Type Zero experience is something that you never need or
want to do -- be in a serious car accident, fall from a high place, etc. A
Bryan Type One experience is something that it is necessary or pleasant or
useful or illuminating or amusing to do once but that's enough. (Barbara says
that seeing the plays "Who's Afraid of Virginia Woolf" and
"Waiting for Godot" are each a Bryan Type One.) A Bryan Type Two experience
is everything else.
Albumen
printing is a Bryan Type One.
I've
enjoyed learning how to do it with some skill. I'm looking forward to having
these glass negatives printed in a way that is appropriate to their age. When
I'm finished printing them my firm resolve is never to do albumen printing
again.
There
are two reasons for my resolve. First (and most positive) is that my own
photographs are not well suited to the look of albumen prints. The albumen
print is a beautiful, rich brown/black with a slightly soft image and veiled
highlights. For my own photographs I prefer a sharper-edged, cooler image. The
second reason, more pragmatic, is that I regard the albumen printing process as
a pain in the neck. Allow me to describe it.
Albumen
printing is a "printing out" process. That is; the image is formed on
the paper by the light that strikes it -- sort of like an apple darkening after
it's cut. As such it is "self-masking" -- the darker areas in the
image form relatively quickly but then the darkened image itself limits how
dark it will get by blocking the incoming light. A printing out process is
ideal for dealing with extremely contrasty negatives (such as vintage glass
plates). However, it is definitely a contact printing process since the
exposure times are minutes to tens-of-minutes in sunlight (thirty minutes with
my CF studio lights). This, of course, implies that the negative must be the
same size as the print you wish to make. Ah! That's the first complication. I
wanted to make small prints but not as small as the 4"x5" negatives.
In this digital age the solution is to make a digital negative from the scans
of the glass plates. I've done this for a couple of other projects so all I had
to do was to get 'calibrated' on how dense and how contrasty to print them.
Several further complications are not so simple to untangle.
The
first step in albumen printing is to coat high-quality water color paper with
an emulsion of albumen and chloride salts. Thankfully, Bostick and Sullivan
stand ready to sell you pre-coated albumen paper. [As an aside, Bostick and
Sullivan is one of the more pleasant companies to deal with that I've ever
found. Their materials are excellent; their shipping is quick and reasonably
priced, if you call with a question you will reach a human -- likely one of the
co-owners or their family -- who will track down an answer.]
However,
as it comes from B&S the paper is not light sensitive -- it must be
sensitized and dried immediately before it is used. It is sensitized by
brushing (and brushing, and brushing, and brushing) a coat of silver nitrate on
the albumen-coated paper. The silver nitrate doesn't soak in -- it reacts with
the chloride salts in the surface of the albumen to form silver chloride --
which is more-or-less light sensitive. After the surface of the paper becomes
dull instead of shiny (by the way, this all must be done in very dim light) it
must be dried with a hair dryer --- and then a second, lighter coating of
silver nitrate applied and dried again. Theoretically you can keep the paper
for a day or so before you use it -- not my experience; even a couple of hours is enough to visibly fog the highlights.
Now
the intrepid printer puts the negative and freshly sensitized paper into a
contact printing frame and put it to bask in the light for an extended time.
Being an organized type of person, I established the exposure required to make
a good black/brown in the darkest areas without fogging the highlights enough to bother me. Good --
now I know how to expose the negative and how to adjust the tones in the
negative to produce an attractive print. Ah, if it were as easy as I make it
sound.
After
the exposure is completed the print must be washed thoroughly (six two-minute
water baths) and then languish for 15 minutes in gold chloride toner. The toner
step changes the tone of the print from a nearly foxy red to the beautiful
brown/black and plates a layer of very stable gold chloride over the image.
Then a quick wash and the print goes into two sequential fixer baths (five
minutes each), another quick wash and five minutes in a wash accelerator (helps
get the fixer out of the paper) and finally, sports fans, into the archival
washer for a half hour.
As
the print sits in the fixer bath it is alarming how much it appears to bleach
lighter. Don't fret -- it will darken again as it dries and (slightly) more
when it is heated to flatten. However, the result is that you don't know
exactly how the print will look until it is dried and flattened.
This
is not a process for one who craves instant gratification.
There
is a sort-of Zen component to any darkroom process -- even with modern
materials and processes -- but this two-hour vigil is over my tolerance. It has
increased my admiration for my photographic ancestors for which this process
was their everyday experience.
The
few prints that I have so-far made are very satisfactory and look a lot like I
hoped they would. That said, if and when
I get the fifteen or so prints for this project done and matted on unbuffered,
acid-free mats (another complication is that the normal mats I use will cause
the albumen prints to fade) I have no intention of starting another project
that is best done with albumen.